Thursday, September 27, 2018

I call it My Bloodright


When I was growing up, I knew my Mom was special, but she was also different from the other Moms. She talked different and her outlook on the world was different. We used to laugh at the funny way she pronounced words like “volleyball” and “bushes”. She never warned me that my nose would grow if I told a lie, she would tell me to stick out my tongue to see if it turned black. I never thought of her as strange, just Icelandic. Growing up in Central Illinois in the 70’s and 80’s, there weren’t any other Icelanders so she was always a novelty in that respect. Looking back, it seems odd that it never occurred to me since she was Icelandic that I was too. I remember the 4th of July in 1976, our town celebrated the bicentennial by having a Best International Costume. My sister and I wore traditional Icelandic dresses and won first place, getting to march in the parade with an American and Icelandic flag. It seemed like we were honoring my mom’s heritage an immigrant, again, not my own. I learned from her only a few words in Icelandic; how to say hello and goodbye, which I remember pronouncing as “golden-dye-yun” and “vet-ta-bless”. When I was about ten years old, my Icelandic grandfather traveled to America and I met him for the first time. I recall two of my mother’s brothers also visiting, for short stays and it was always exciting to listen to their strange language and hear their stories of Iceland. The heritage was not real to me as a part of who I was, at least not at that time.

American Family & Icelandic Cousins
My first visit to Iceland was shortly after I graduated from high school. The country was amazing, exciting, and beautiful. I met Icelandic relatives during a whirlwind tour, cramming in as much as possible in a week-long trip. I loved everything about the country and the people, but it still didn’t feel like an integral part of what I was. That didn’t change until 2013, when at the age of 88, my mom published her memoirs of growing up in Iceland. I was so proud of her. As I read her book I found that amongst the stories of her adventures with her sisters riding their Icelandic horses and spending summers at her grandfather’s farm, there was the prevalent theme of folklore, trolls, and Hidden folk. At that time, I was passionate about a hobby creating wood yard art and for Christmas that year, I made a set of Icelandic Yule Lads for her yard. She was so proud of them and insisted calling the local newspaper, who ran a story that ended up being featured in the Morgunblaðið, an Icelandic newspaper.

Saying 'takk' to Grýla for her story
Everyone seemed to be caught up with the story of the Yule Lads. I had always loved reading, particularity loving folklore, fairy tales, and mythology. This now was the spark that ignited my passion to embrace my Icelandic heritage. I began researching the folklore and was fascinated at the way the mythology reflected the culture and attitudes of the people. I brought more of the traditions into my own life, and sought out Icelandic organizations and clubs to join to learn even more. I returned back to Iceland several times and allowed myself to experience the land itself. My Mom had often said that when she returned to her homeland, that she could finally breathe. I understand that. As an adult embracing the heritage of the land, I felt that connection on my first trip back in 2014. I had been researching the people, the stories, and the customs. I understood now that this was my country, my heritage, and the people here had the same history and bloodline as I did. That time, when I stepped on the land, I connected. I took a deep breath and felt the significance. As I saw the sights and visited the historic areas, it was a profoundly moving experience.

Fishing like my Grandpa! from Hofsós
I have returned every year since then. My connection with my heritage has grown stronger, and my appreciation deeper. I started with the tourist highlights, then sought out lesser-known areas, and visited locations of family significance. I love Dyrhólaey, in Southern Iceland, where the ocean waves crash against the rocks, mesmerizing and haunting in its beauty. My favorite town is Hofsós, a wonderful village with historical significance and views of Drangey, the small island, which is the site of my favorite Icelandic legend. Vopnafjörður is where my mother spent her summers, and the site of so many stories of her grandfather’s farm. Reykjavík, her hometown and the capital city. Stykkishólmur where my maternal grandmother’s family was from and the amazing scenery of Snæfellsnes and Reykjanes peninsulas. These are all as familiar to me now as memories of American State Parks and campgrounds from my childhood.

Just outside Vopnafjörður
I was born and raised in the Heartland of America, educated and instructed in the things deemed important in the United States. I was not raised with an understanding of my Icelandic heritage and growing up in that culture was not my birthright. It is, however, my heritage and my history - because of that it is my bloodright, which I gladly claim and fiercely protect. I want to continue my trips to Iceland each year, or more frequently. I dream of owning a home there, spending entire summers in a small cottage perhaps around Borgarvirki, the old Viking fortress ruins that spark my imagination and inspire my creative writing. My deepest desire is to converse freely in Icelandic, to be able to speak, understand, and read the language as easily as my native English. As many places as I have been in Iceland, there are many more left to explore. I have ziplined, ridden horses through the mountains, and gone paragliding off the coast of Vik, but I’ve never snorkeled at Þingvellir, I’ve never stood at my great-grandparents gravesites, and haven’t explored Grímsey. These and so many more thing are on my ever-growing list of Things to Do in Iceland. In the meantime, I’ve added the Yule Lads to my Christmas celebration, try to find a Thorrablot dinner to attend each February, and stay active in Icelandic clubs to have the company of others interested in Iceland.
I am proud to be an American made with Icelandic parts, an Icelander living in North America, between trips back to my heart’s homeland.

5 comments:

  1. I think that you would identify with Bill Holm, a Minnesota writer and of Icelandic heritage. See his book "Windows of Brimnes", the name of his cottage in Hofsos. It's just across the stream from the Emigration Center. He, too, sought to learn Icelandic and live in the country.

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  2. Omg! I can relate to you so much..My Mom was born in Iceland the oldest of five. She is 87 years old now. Two brothers live in Iceland and two brothers came to the states. Unfortunately she lost her brother Batti(BoB) a few years ago here in the states. I grew up one of four siblings on Long Island NY. My parents met in Iceland in 1950, my Dad had taken a job with Lockheed Aircraft and was working in Keflavik. A year later they married and moved to the states. I was born in 1957. I have always had a fascination with this mysterious place called Iceland (my Dad used to call it the "rock"). My Mom went back every other summer and it wasn't until I was 15 that I got the privilege of going. My parents were working class people so family trips were not possible. My Uncle Einar who worked for Loftleidir Airlines at the time treated me to a trip for a month to spend with my cousins in Iceland! I even got to sit in the navigators seat in the cock pit! I spent a month in July galavanting all over with my cousins, Grandparents and Aunts and Uncles, loving every minute. Biking from Reykjavik to Kopavogur.Camping in Vik omg! I know I'm rambling but I can so relate to you. I have been back 3 more times the most memorable was a family reunion at a school house in south of Iceland near Vik where they rented a schoolhouse so we could have indoor facilities but everyone camped on the grounds. I brought my husband Mom and 3 children and we had the time of our lives...singing dancing, drinking and story telling. Sorry I am rambling on but Of my siblings I am the only one with the love for Iceland and am now my Mothers care taker. She is in the early stages of dementia and it is so funny she can't remember anything from five minutes ago but take her to Iceland and she can tell you where here first friend lived when they were five! Anyway Loved reading your article! All the best and remember we are "all" cousins...Annamay Adams mazie61@gmail.com

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  3. Heidi and Annamay, what wonderful stories of Iceland! I'm now very interested in learning more about the country. Thank you for sharing!

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