When I was
growing up, I knew my Mom was special, but she was also different from the
other Moms. She talked different and her outlook on the world was different. We
used to laugh at the funny way she pronounced words like “volleyball” and
“bushes”. She never warned me that my nose would grow if I told a lie, she
would tell me to stick out my tongue to see if it turned black. I never thought
of her as strange, just Icelandic. Growing up in Central Illinois in the 70’s
and 80’s, there weren’t any other Icelanders so she was always a novelty in
that respect. Looking back, it seems odd that it never occurred to me since she
was Icelandic that I was too. I remember the 4th of July in 1976, our town
celebrated the bicentennial by having a Best International Costume. My sister
and I wore traditional Icelandic dresses and won first place, getting to march in
the parade with an American and Icelandic flag. It seemed like we were honoring
my mom’s heritage an immigrant, again, not my own. I learned from her only a
few words in Icelandic; how to say hello and goodbye, which I remember
pronouncing as “golden-dye-yun” and “vet-ta-bless”. When I was about ten years
old, my Icelandic grandfather traveled to America and I met him for the first
time. I recall two of my mother’s brothers also visiting, for short stays and
it was always exciting to listen to their strange language and hear their
stories of Iceland. The heritage was not real to me as a part of who I was, at
least not at that time.
American Family & Icelandic Cousins |
My first visit to
Iceland was shortly after I graduated from high school. The country was
amazing, exciting, and beautiful. I met Icelandic relatives during a whirlwind
tour, cramming in as much as possible in a week-long trip. I loved everything
about the country and the people, but it still didn’t feel like an integral
part of what I was. That didn’t change until 2013, when at the age of 88, my
mom published her memoirs of growing up in Iceland. I was so proud of her. As I
read her book I found that amongst the stories of her adventures with her
sisters riding their Icelandic horses and spending summers at her grandfather’s
farm, there was the prevalent theme of folklore, trolls, and Hidden folk. At
that time, I was passionate about a hobby creating wood yard art and for
Christmas that year, I made a set of Icelandic Yule Lads for her yard. She was
so proud of them and insisted calling the local newspaper, who ran a story that
ended up being featured in the Morgunblaðið, an Icelandic newspaper.
Saying 'takk' to Grýla for her story |
Everyone seemed
to be caught up with the story of the Yule Lads. I had always loved reading,
particularity loving folklore, fairy tales, and mythology. This now was the
spark that ignited my passion to embrace my Icelandic heritage. I began
researching the folklore and was fascinated at the way the mythology reflected
the culture and attitudes of the people. I brought more of the traditions into
my own life, and sought out Icelandic organizations and clubs to join to learn
even more. I returned back to Iceland several times and allowed myself to
experience the land itself. My Mom had often said that when she returned to her
homeland, that she could finally breathe. I understand that. As an adult embracing
the heritage of the land, I felt that connection on my first trip back in 2014.
I had been researching the people, the stories, and the customs. I understood
now that this was my country, my heritage, and the people here had the same
history and bloodline as I did. That time, when I stepped on the land, I
connected. I took a deep breath and felt the significance. As I saw the sights
and visited the historic areas, it was a profoundly moving experience.
Fishing like my Grandpa! from Hofsós |
I have returned
every year since then. My connection with my heritage has grown stronger, and
my appreciation deeper. I started with the tourist highlights, then sought out
lesser-known areas, and visited locations of family significance. I love Dyrhólaey,
in Southern Iceland, where the ocean waves crash against the rocks, mesmerizing
and haunting in its beauty. My favorite town is Hofsós, a wonderful village
with historical significance and views of Drangey, the small island, which is
the site of my favorite Icelandic legend. Vopnafjörður is where my mother spent
her summers, and the site of so many stories of her grandfather’s farm. Reykjavík,
her hometown and the capital city. Stykkishólmur where my maternal
grandmother’s family was from and the amazing scenery of Snæfellsnes and Reykjanes
peninsulas. These are all as familiar to me now as memories of American State
Parks and campgrounds from my childhood.
Just outside Vopnafjörður |
I was born and
raised in the Heartland of America, educated and instructed in the things
deemed important in the United States. I was not raised with an understanding
of my Icelandic heritage and growing up in that culture was not my birthright.
It is, however, my heritage and my history - because of that it is my
bloodright, which I gladly claim and fiercely protect. I want to continue my
trips to Iceland each year, or more frequently. I dream of owning a home there,
spending entire summers in a small cottage perhaps around Borgarvirki, the old
Viking fortress ruins that spark my imagination and inspire my creative
writing. My deepest desire is to converse freely in Icelandic, to be able to
speak, understand, and read the language as easily as my native English. As
many places as I have been in Iceland, there are many more left to explore. I
have ziplined, ridden horses through the mountains, and gone paragliding off
the coast of Vik, but I’ve never snorkeled at Þingvellir, I’ve never stood at
my great-grandparents gravesites, and haven’t explored Grímsey. These and so
many more thing are on my ever-growing list of Things to Do in Iceland. In the
meantime, I’ve added the Yule Lads to my Christmas celebration, try to find a Thorrablot
dinner to attend each February, and stay active in Icelandic clubs to have the
company of others interested in Iceland.
I am proud to be an American made with
Icelandic parts, an Icelander living in North America, between trips back to my
heart’s homeland.
Great article,
ReplyDeleteFrábært.
ReplyDeleteI think that you would identify with Bill Holm, a Minnesota writer and of Icelandic heritage. See his book "Windows of Brimnes", the name of his cottage in Hofsos. It's just across the stream from the Emigration Center. He, too, sought to learn Icelandic and live in the country.
ReplyDeleteOmg! I can relate to you so much..My Mom was born in Iceland the oldest of five. She is 87 years old now. Two brothers live in Iceland and two brothers came to the states. Unfortunately she lost her brother Batti(BoB) a few years ago here in the states. I grew up one of four siblings on Long Island NY. My parents met in Iceland in 1950, my Dad had taken a job with Lockheed Aircraft and was working in Keflavik. A year later they married and moved to the states. I was born in 1957. I have always had a fascination with this mysterious place called Iceland (my Dad used to call it the "rock"). My Mom went back every other summer and it wasn't until I was 15 that I got the privilege of going. My parents were working class people so family trips were not possible. My Uncle Einar who worked for Loftleidir Airlines at the time treated me to a trip for a month to spend with my cousins in Iceland! I even got to sit in the navigators seat in the cock pit! I spent a month in July galavanting all over with my cousins, Grandparents and Aunts and Uncles, loving every minute. Biking from Reykjavik to Kopavogur.Camping in Vik omg! I know I'm rambling but I can so relate to you. I have been back 3 more times the most memorable was a family reunion at a school house in south of Iceland near Vik where they rented a schoolhouse so we could have indoor facilities but everyone camped on the grounds. I brought my husband Mom and 3 children and we had the time of our lives...singing dancing, drinking and story telling. Sorry I am rambling on but Of my siblings I am the only one with the love for Iceland and am now my Mothers care taker. She is in the early stages of dementia and it is so funny she can't remember anything from five minutes ago but take her to Iceland and she can tell you where here first friend lived when they were five! Anyway Loved reading your article! All the best and remember we are "all" cousins...Annamay Adams mazie61@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteHeidi and Annamay, what wonderful stories of Iceland! I'm now very interested in learning more about the country. Thank you for sharing!
ReplyDelete